Moon of Alabama Brecht quote
June 2, 2006
WB: The Gift of the Nile

Billmon:

It was then – half-hypnotized, my head drooping towards my lap – that I had a dreamlike vision of Egypt as a single, living organism, sustained by a vast circulatory system, comparable to that of a human body. The Nile was the heart, pumping water instead of blood; the main irrigation canals were the veins and arteries, carrying the Nile’s gift to the land; the wet fingers reaching into the fields were the capillaries, saturating the soil with life, while the Egyptians themselves were the individual cells at the ends of those dense filaments, drawing sustenance from the timeless trinity of earth, water and sun. Outside my window the sky seemed to expand while the train shrank, until it was just a fly, crawling slowly across the gray expanse of an elephant’s back. And then I really was asleep, gently rocked by the elephant’s rough steps as it ambled towards the edge of the world.

The Gift of the Nile

Comments

Flatland is by Edwin Abbott Abbott. The edition I have is printed on square pages.
Aside from that – what a writer.
Thank you, Billmon.

Posted by: b | Jun 2 2006 17:44 utc | 1

Very interesting and enjoyable. There is one point on which I have something to add:
The etymology of “fellow” Billmon gives is different from the Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary –
Etymology: Middle English felawe, from Old English fEolaga, from Old Norse fElagi, from fElag partnership, from fE cattle, money + lag act of laying

Posted by: mistah charley | Jun 2 2006 19:24 utc | 2

i don’t know about you, mistah charley… but I only use Webster online for emergency…
b, I forgave Billmon immediately for giving credit to Carroll for Flatland… after all, they were both mathematicians —
Billmon, wonderful piece… I have passed it on for others to enjoy.

Posted by: crone | Jun 2 2006 19:32 utc | 3

You know Micheal Palin does these sort of trips on the TV which is very good to watch. Billmon surpasses all this with his writing and historic detail.
Look at this night shot of the world from space and see the Nile Cobra.
http://www2.una.edu/geography/lights_night/images/earth_lights.jpg

Posted by: Cloned Poster | Jun 2 2006 19:48 utc | 4

Thanks again. I’ve passed it on too. My folks were in Egypt in March and took the boat to Luxor. [I’d go by donkey even, if I could]

Posted by: beq | Jun 2 2006 19:53 utc | 5

hmm thank you billmon, what a view.
beautiful dreamlike vision (and thanks for the link CP).
fangs clamped firmly into the bottom of the Mediterranean !!
please take some photos of locals if you can swing it.
the architecture reminds me of another in the similar arid location around new mexico.

Posted by: annie | Jun 2 2006 20:13 utc | 6

Billmon,
What a great diarist you are.
Such picturesque prose.
I could almost hear the ka-kluk ka-kluk of the train wheels as I travelled with you.
Thankyou.

Posted by: pb | Jun 2 2006 21:41 utc | 7

I swear, it’s almost as if Billmon was channeling H.Rider Haggard

Posted by: possum | Jun 2 2006 21:47 utc | 8

Ed note: It would be an asp not a cobra. (An Egyptian god before Atenamen and equal to Ra for that matter.)(The sun and the river.)

Posted by: Anonymous | Jun 2 2006 22:05 utc | 9

I’m still a fan! Thanks!

Posted by: Darryl Pearce | Jun 3 2006 0:35 utc | 10

Couldn’t find an email link at the Whiskey bar, but wanted to say thanks for the great posts about Egypt. Fantastic reading!
-Dan R. Knoxville, TN

Posted by: Anonymous | Jun 3 2006 1:41 utc | 11

no insult intended, because billmon is a fine writer, but what is the relevancy of the travel narrative at this point in history?
the genre has a victorian quaintness: supercilious bourgeois dispatches news of the view of natives from the window of a slowmoving train. even in the satire of innocents abroad, the narrative is condescending to the people visited by twain: cultures measured by the insatiable clamor for baksheesh.
as some sort of perverse anti-baedeker, maybe the travel narrative works, like a borges perusing the 100 year-old atlas for an entry for orbis tertius in order to create worlds by a flood of imagined maps and footnoted references. by this point in history, we know that no reliable guide exists to exotic places, and no such guide should exist. each map is an erasure history. just ask the arabs.
best to stay at home. who cares what the people do across the river. travel is arrogant.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 2:33 utc | 12

travel is arrogant.
spoken by a person who hasn’t been in a car in 13 years huh sloth? you crack me up sometimes

Posted by: annie | Jun 3 2006 2:45 utc | 13

there’s a thousand stories to tell where I sit. every day.
travel is incipient colonialism.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 2:58 utc | 14

has anyone written the socio-history of travel? the impulse to travel has a history and ideology(ies).

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 3:18 utc | 15

travel is arrogant.
Travel writing is generally not my thing either. Paul Theroux turned me off to it with his awful train book about China, written during a time when I was a 16-year old on my own in Beijing soaking up more knowledge of the country by the day than Theroux could ever hope to pack into 600 pages…
But, ah, yes. In my experience, nothing is so arrogant as youth.

Posted by: mats | Jun 3 2006 3:33 utc | 16

@slothrop – can’t you just enjoy good writing? Just enjoy!

Posted by: b | Jun 3 2006 4:59 utc | 17

McCain Says Stay the Course in Impending Disaster
Impact Trajectory Little Changed
Wednesday 7 September 2011
API – Johnson Space Center
This Friday was supposed to have been a solemn ceremony reminding all
Americans that the price of Freedom(TM) is Eternal Vigilance. President John
McCain was supposed to speak at the Lincoln Memorial on the difficulties the
country is facing with a Second Iran War, and how we as citizens of the United
States must revive the Spirit of Our Forefathers(TM) to overcome Tyranny, on
this, the tenth anniversary of the Attack on the World Trade Center, aka ‘9/11’.
It was not to be.
Late last night an emergency declaration was issued from the Atacama
Cosmology Telescope in Atacama, Chile, warning the world’s leaders that
a darkfield imaging camera at the site had revealed the presence of a fast-
approaching asteroid which has been officially named ‘Chicxulub II’, although
scientists have dubbed the 16-mile diameter asteroid massif, “Colossus”.
Colussus’ calculated trajectory and time of re-entry is little changed from the
preliminary prediction made this morning, that it will impact somewhere near
the Brandywine Battlefield Park in Delaware County, PA. The impact has been
projected to be the equivalent of all thermonuclear weapons in world arsenals,
and has caused near panic conditions throughout the Eastern US, even though
the impact is not for another fifteen months, sometime around Christmas, 2012.
President McCain has issued a calming declaration, asking that business
and industry remain as they are, focused on the same profit and production
goals, in the event the scientists at Atacama are incorrect. He has called for
a world astrophysics federation meeting on October 15th to review the latest
estimates for trajectory, to redefine the location and time of projected impact,
and promised $10B in aerospace development aid to the first scientist who
proves the gloomy predictions are incorrect.
McCain also spoke to our military forces stationed overseas.
“I know our troops are hard-pressed, and stretched tight around the world,”
McCain explained, as Vice President Jeb Bush looked on. “Many of you are
on your seventh or eighth deployment, and this has been very hard on your
families, who now scarcely remember what you look like. I would remind
all active forces that, even though peace has been declared in Iraq, Iran
and Afghanistan, the US military command will continue to serve as the
peace keepers, right up until the moment of the Colossus asteroid impact.”
Republican US Senators were not so sanguine. Many of them were seen
this morning packing their Senate offices into Ryder vans with Wyoming
license plates, planning to move into the Rocky Mountain Arsenal, where
an entire underground city has been carved from solid rock, exclusively
for the political leaders and influential businessmen of America. Several
junior senators were seen in hot arguments over their places in the RMA.
Projections from the Fox Broadcast science advisor were shown on
national state television and cellular services this morning, showing
a computer graphic of Colossus striking central Pennsylvania in the
location where, on September 11, 1777, two hundred and thirty five
years ago, the British conquest of the US colonies was crushed.
The graphic shows most of the eastern Appalachians area being
subsumed under a massive shower of molten magma that will
swallow everthing between Philadelphia and Washington DC,
and generate a tidal wave estimated to be one thousand feet high
when it slams into Europe and Africa some twenty-eight hours later.
President McCain urged calm, and advised all Americans to remember
that the US economy depends on Christmas shopping. “Whatever you
do,” he extolled the crowd, “Don’t stop shopping! This too shall pass!!”
Gold futures were down on overnight trading and synthetic crude oil
was little changed from $235 a barrel.

Posted by: Larry Franklin | Jun 3 2006 5:33 utc | 18

When reading the post on egypt, i remembered this wonderful piece of fiction i read sometime back. highly recommended:
Amitav Ghosh – In an antique land
http://www.powells.com/biblio?isbn=1862071209
from the blurb:
Publisher Comments:
The cover proclaims IAAL “History in the guise of a traveller’s tale,” and the multi-generic book moves back and forth between Ghosh’s experience living in small villages and towns in the Nile Delta and his reconstruction of a Jewish trader and his slave’s lives in the eleventh century from documents from the Cairo Geniza. In the 1980s Amitav Ghosh moved into a converted chicken coop. It was on the roof of a house in Lataifa, a tiny village in Egypt. During the day he poured over medieval letters sent to India from Cairo by Arab merchants. In the evenings he shut out the bellowing of his fat landlord by turning up the volume of his transistor radio and wrote stories based on what he had seen in the village. The story of Khamees the Rat, the notorious impotent (already twice married); of Zaghloul the weaver determined to travel to India on a donkey; of one-eyed Mohammad, so obsessed with a girl that he spent nights kneeling outside her window to listen to the sound of her breathing; of Amm ‘Taha, part-time witch, always ready to cast a spell for a little extra money; and, of course, the story of Amitav Ghosh himself, known in the village as the Indian doctor, the uncircumcised, cow-worshipping kaffir who would not convert to Islam. This book is the story of Amitav Ghosh’s decade of intimacy with the village community. Mixing conversation and research, imagination and scholarship, it is also a charged, eccentric history of the special relationship between two countires, Egypt and India, through nearly ten centuries of parochialism and sympathy, bigotry and affection.

Posted by: A | Jun 3 2006 7:21 utc | 19

@billmon
What a wonderful writer. You know I’m a long-time fan, but jeez louise! the Nile narrative is almost peerless.

Posted by: Wolf DeVoon | Jun 3 2006 14:21 utc | 20

Thanks A, looks great.
Sloth, if you’re gonna channel Henry Thoreau you shoulda cited that great line about the pyramids, something like “the real wonder of the pyramids is that the people of egypt could have been so cowardly and servile as to build a giant monument to a popinjay who they would have been better off drowning in the Nile.”
Anyways I agree with Ed Abbey about Thoreau. He shoulda thunk less and gone to see the rockies.

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 3 2006 15:05 utc | 21

each map is an erasure
and contravenes our nature
which is to surf the net
let us sit on our tuches-es
and remonstrate against bourgeoisness
and the hegemonic state

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 3 2006 15:48 utc | 22

Amitav Ghosh – In an antique land
thanks A. i wonder if you are the A i think you are.

Posted by: annie | Jun 3 2006 15:50 utc | 23

slothrop, you are fortunate in your appreciation of the quotidian. alas, i yearn for travel. to see, hear, smell, lose myself and find myself in the ways and creations of a different cultural context. i can’t for a second begrudge billmon this long-awaited adventure and am grateful he has taken the risk of sharing it with us when we have come to expect something other from him. of course, it doesn’t hurt that he is doing it so beautifully. gotta love him for pushing the parameters.

Posted by: conchita | Jun 3 2006 15:53 utc | 24

Speaking of travel – my wife’s godson’s Burmese father, whom I met at a high school graduation a week ago, told me (in the context of the boy going to university in a different city) that his people say that “A man, to amount to anything, must leave his own village.”

Posted by: mistah charley | Jun 3 2006 16:37 utc | 25

“the map is not the territory; but neither is the territory.”–my grandma

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 17:08 utc | 26

A Cheap holiday in other peoples misery!
I don’t wanna holiday in the sun
I wanna go to new Belsen
I wanna see some history
‘Cause now I got a reasonable economy

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 17:16 utc | 27

lao tzu:
In a little state with a small population, I would so order it, that, though there were individuals with the abilities of ten or a
hundred men, there should be no employment of them; I would make the people, while looking on death as a grievous thing, yet not remove
elsewhere (to avoid it).
Though they had boats and carriages, they should have no occasion to ride in them; though they had buff coats and sharp weapons, they should have no occasion to don or use them.
I would make the people return to the use of knotted cords (instead of the written characters).
They should think their (coarse) food sweet; their (plain) clothes beautiful; their (poor) dwellings places of rest; and their common
(simple) ways sources of enjoyment.
There should be a neighbouring state within sight, and the voices of the fowls and dogs should be heard all the way from it to us, but I
would make the people to old age, even to death, not have any intercourse with it.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 17:19 utc | 28

Hey Slothrop:
Legalist doctrine, which was embraced happily by the Chin, was derived from Taoism. Each peasant in his place, no questioning, just placid hard work and some amputations if you were a slow learner.
But us rootless cosmopolitans have a jaundiced view of the smug villager, content to remain in ignorance about what lies over the hill.

As old Walt said:
AFOOT and light-hearted, I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
The long brown path before me, leading wherever I choose.
Henceforth I ask not good-fortune—I myself am good fortune;
Henceforth I whimper no more, postpone no more, need nothing, 5
Strong and content, I travel the open road.
The earth—that is sufficient;
I do not want the constellations any nearer;
I know they are very well where they are;
I know they suffice for those who belong to them.
(Still here I carry my old delicious burdens;
I carry them, men and women—I carry them with me wherever I go;
I swear it is impossible for me to get rid of them;
I am fill’d with them, and I will fill them in return.)

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 3 2006 17:37 utc | 29

so you wanna come to our mountains
sick of yer pigeon shit and dirty fountains
but there’s a nature where you are
wild arrays for reasons of their own
can find you in thneir beauty
but, you’ll never understand
as discontent and boredom
are your bourgeois duty

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 18:30 utc | 30

went down to the station
but the train won’t go nowhere
Lao Tzu and the Bossman put a wall up there
Sign sez don’t think of wandering off
Don’t leave your work and stinking hut
Rooster crows across the stream
but the guards will kick your butt
Pick up the hoe and the hammer
and the wheelbarrow full of shit
heave that barge and tow that bale
this ain’t tag and you ain’t it
i’m sweating and gasping and hauling cement
and the Prof. says ain’t it nice
these rustics are dumb and content
eat their mush and don’t need spice

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 3 2006 19:16 utc | 31

your desires will take you as far as you can go
but at the end of every journey, what it is you wanted
you’ll never know.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 19:24 utc | 32

couplets, baby

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 19:25 utc | 33

Wonderful Billmon.

Posted by: Noisette | Jun 3 2006 19:43 utc | 34

Feh, Sloth, yer’ a wild eyed optimistic kid after all.
——
For each ecstatic instant
We must an anguish pay
In keen and quivering ratio
To the ecstasy.
For each beloved hour
Sharp pittances of years,
Bitter contested farthings
And coffers heaped with tears.
– E.D.

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 3 2006 20:10 utc | 35

couplets, baby

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 3 2006 20:24 utc | 36

Sloth: Three travel books you might like.
The Adventures of Ibn Battuta : A Muslim Traveller of the 14th Century.
I Wonder as I Wander : An Autobiographical Journey
by Langston Hughes, (that guy could write and the tale of meeting Arty Koestler in Samarkand or going with the ex-Mrs. Rivera to collect alimony from Diego and the discussion of the relationship between Jim Crow and Soviet Uzbekistan are among the many gems in there)
The Log of Rubin the Sailor, Charles Rubin (International Publishers so you _know_ it was politically correct).
I do not recommend “Bwana Wolfowitz and the Wogs: An imperialist travelogue and love story” by Nial Ferguson and Doug “SFP” Feith. Sample dialog “Say, Nial, Wolfie asked, there are some Wogs, ask them where the oil wells are. ‘Mr Wolfowitz’ I said, we’re still in Heathrow and those are Trinidadian cricket players, the cheeky buggers’, “what kinda poofter nonsense is that?” asked Doug.”
And for people who hate Paul thereoux, something I don’t do but understand, you should try to find the really bitchy, and I mean that in the best way, letter to the New Yorker by his ex-wife. Must be on the net somewhere.

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 3 2006 23:12 utc | 37

speaking of travel, the arctic tern nests in the arctic tundra (of course) yet prefers to spend the winter on the other side of the planet in the antarctic, an annual migration of some 22,000 miles. and there’s the gray whale, which hold the record for the longest known migration in the mammal category, journeying from baja cali, mexico to the chukchi sea in the arctic every year for a round-trip total of more than 10,000 miles.

Posted by: b real | Jun 4 2006 5:20 utc | 38

those arctic tern, so despicably bourgeois

Posted by: annie | Jun 4 2006 6:53 utc | 39

travel is arrogant
Travel is everything, so it can be arrogant.
The upper classes used to travel, and plebs could not.
With economic development, as it is called, this particular badge of status became accesible to the poorer types. One can either see deserved workers vacations (France, 1930s, black and white photos…) or arrogant, contemptuous and disdainful moving about at high cost for nothing – travel as a stressful exercise to finally enter the safe haven of a portion of one’s own space, in the shape of a Hilton Hotel.
Honey these nems are not as tasty as the ones you make
Or adventurers who go on a voyage of discovery. (Not Paul Theroux.) Or young people exploring the world. Botanists tramping around, obsessive about flora. Etc.
Today, many people who travel are forced to do so. They are refugees, displaced persons, the desperate who try for a better life, people in camps, sent here or there, who knows why. They are also international workers – be it famous sports champs or accountants and expats of various types who are sent around like poker chips on the gambling table. Then there is the human trafficking. Imagine waking up in a cold place where everyone speaks German..or being put on a plane and not told the destination.
Of course these worlds do not meet.

Posted by: Noisette | Jun 4 2006 14:23 utc | 40

I can’t afford to travel as far as I’d like but if others didn’t all I would ever know is “Americans”. 😛

Posted by: beq | Jun 4 2006 15:42 utc | 41

I’m not a bird, man.
But the birdies are singing something I wanna say.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 4 2006 15:48 utc | 42

I’m going to read the hughes bio, by golly.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 4 2006 15:53 utc | 43

what an interesting group you all are. very much fun to understand so much about travel.
The wandering is in my bones.
If it wasn’t, the entire human race would look like some four-fingered, thrice-intermarried cousins of cousins on a mountain island in virginny west.
he comes to me or I go to him and we fuck like rabbits in clover and find our humanity there.
oh thou of little mileage may mentally diverge.

Posted by: Lucy Le Sapien | Jun 4 2006 18:05 utc | 44

lucy! i love it. the clover!
when i get stuck i get out of my environment and am reminded my own little world is restricted by my own tunnel vision.interacting w/humans from another place (and time) changes who i am. the term armchair analyst speaks for itself.
walking in anothers shoes is hard to do if you can’t take your own off.

Posted by: Anonymous | Jun 4 2006 19:24 utc | 45

oops, that was me

Posted by: annie | Jun 4 2006 19:26 utc | 46

Slothrop: “Baedeker”? Are you in your 90s?
My God, thought V, as she paged through the ruins of the Baedeker at the cafe behind the Prince Albert in Luxor. Bodine had been solving pornographic sodoku, his crass suggestions, scrawled on top of the restrained prose of the guide. Just then Malmenstroke-Beyonce arrived on his motorcycle, positively oozing secrets of the Khedive. The square, whitened by the droppings of arctic terns, appeared more ominious than ever.

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 4 2006 20:11 utc | 47

herbert stencil is as good a guide to the indeterminacy of travel and history as anyone. that travel is colonial can be expressed in the heisenbergian effects of the traveler upon the course of history. and in the effort to locate causes and effects the traveler finds a vast conspiracy called V.
better just stay home.
what the hell. did you scan v for search term “arctic tern”? damn.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 4 2006 20:49 utc | 48

No scan. Just made it up.
I don’t think sodoku or beyonce existed back then.

Posted by: citizen k | Jun 5 2006 14:57 utc | 49

there’s always something to think about visavis pynchon. existence is a conspiracy even when effects precede causes. we’ll do anything to find order in order to find power.

Posted by: slothrop | Jun 5 2006 16:48 utc | 50

amen! (sloth)

Posted by: Noisette | Jun 5 2006 20:05 utc | 51

where’s billmon? i hope he didn’t decide to keep his reflections to himself. i really want to hear about the rest of his trip. last time i got impatient he posted. it’s been 4 days.
maybe sloth can resume his complaining to one of the other threads this time and devote the comments to people who love and appreciate travelogues and his writing.
fat chance.just thought i’d suggest it. you have to have thick skin to put your writing up just to get it chewed apart by the peanut gallery. if for some reason we don’t hear back from him for months, i am holding sloth personally responsible! amen!

Posted by: annie | Jun 6 2006 23:23 utc | 52

LIVING IN AMERICA
From the movie “Rocky IV”
(Charlie Midnight / Dan Hartman)
recorded by James Brown
Yeah, uh! Get up, now! Ow! Knock out this!
Super highways, coast to coast,
easy to get anywhere
On the transcontinental overload,
just slide behind the wheel
How does it feel
When there’s no destination – that’s too far
And somewhere on the way,
you might find out who you are
[snip]

Posted by: mistah charley | Jun 8 2006 14:11 utc | 53

“Outside my window the sky seemed to expand while the train shrank, until it was just a fly, crawling slowly across the vast gray expanse of an elephant’s back. And then I really was asleep, gently rocked by the elephant’s rough steps as it ambled towards the edge of the world.”
Hope they feature this mood in the big movies I predict will come out soon featuring desert / heat / arab culture / faith / middle eastern culture / romance / history / hospitality / feasting / contests / oases and precious water / thirst / little to no violence / and beautiful men and women.

Posted by: Anonymous | Jun 9 2006 2:23 utc | 54

please please please billmon i want to hear the next chapter

Posted by: annie | Jun 12 2006 14:01 utc | 55

I’ll second that, annie.

Posted by: beq | Jun 12 2006 18:45 utc | 56